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A "better" Road |
The drive to Pader district from Gulu takes hours on bumpy
unpaved roads on a normal day, but that drive gets extended immensely as you
find yourself having car trouble and saying good-bye as a downpour begins. The
quantitative research team that I was paired with for travel had encountered
two flat tires on their way to Gulu, and even after those repairs, the car was
making strange noises. Rather than leave me to work at the hotel, I was picked
up promptly to be deposited outside of the car in a “repair shop” or more
honestly repair lot. There was not much one hitching a ride could do, but the
other assistant and I sat near the front of the car patiently making chit-chat.
There was a lot of work being done, and finally we thought things were just
about done. The repair man hopped in the front seat to take it for a test. For
most that would mean backing out of the lot and driving it, but apparently not
for the repairman! Luckily for me, the assistant Ester grabbed me to the side
(still seated in the little wooden chair) as the car rolled forward.
It really is one of those miscommunications that could come
from anyone, anywhere, but it comes with the warning, don’t go on auto-pilot
too often. With that near hit, I decided I was going to go get tea (especially
since the noise was not gone yet after more than an hour’s work). Ester and I
headed to a place “nearby” that was not so near, but we got seated and I was
able to get to work. I have become so used to patience involving having a million
things to do, and always having something to fill the time when it pops up.
This has come with a persistent desire not to waste time and therefore a need
to maintain my patience where work cannot be done.
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newly paved road! |
This trip was a reminder that travel time does not always
equate to work time or productive time, sometimes it is just to be devoted to
experience and silence. While the car work was being done I was able to do some
work, but the drives were so bumpy enough that there was absolutely no way to
do work or even have a conversation with someone in a different row of seats
from you. It is ironic where opportunities come for self-reflection. The trips
to and around Pader might be better seen as “hold on tight”-style meditations!
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rocks being used to prevent people driving on the new road. |
There is time to consider the prospects for education and
how critical infrastructure is to the opportunities available to rural
communities. The car we were in had been through a heck of a lot, and leaving
the last school on Tuesday we drove through a rainstorm with leaking sun roofs
(this car had 4 strangely placed ones) and almost spun off the road in the mud
that was becoming soft and slippery. We needed to get to our hotel to keep
things dry, and our bumper ended up in the very back seat after trying to pull
off the road to a school the next morning. With infrastructure and repairs
being needed so consistently, why would anyone want to invest in bringing big
businesses to Uganda? When the accidents at the side of the road were 75% large
(maybe overloaded) semi’s, would you want to invest in massive trade? Not until
the roads were wide enough for two to pass without driving one another to crash
along the canals at the side of the road trying to keep the road from washing
away all together.
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sign denoting the almost buried in dirt tracks |
Additionally, there are train tracks and rail road
crossings, but as you will be able to see from pictures hopefully, they clearly
haven’t been used in quite some time and have grass and dirt built up high
enough that you would derail anything that tried to run along the route. What
if these routes worked? What if people actually could transport themselves and
their goods by train to and from Kenya rather than by bus, car and truck? There
would be a massive change. Fabrics in Uganda aren’t made there, but imagine the
following supply chain: White fabric is made in Congo, sent across Uganda to
Kenya to be tie-died via machines and then sent back to Uganda and Congo where
it is sewn into clothing locally and sold in Kampala (and far less frequently
in other towns’ markets). This is not only inefficient in terms of
transportation costs, but it requires a risk to cargo on the roads in both the
northeastern direction and the southwestern direction. Trains working on the
railroads that pass through the Gulu and Pader districts wouldn’t solve their
trade problems, but it would open up markets in a whole new light. Supply chain
efficiencies are being considered for hospitals and medical supplies, but to
increase the ability of small farmers to get goods to big markets and to
facilitate large scale business to operate internationally in Africa there
needs to be significant infrastructure progress made.
So let me describe the town of Pader for those who’ve never
made it past Gulu or Lira. Pader is a sleepy town and only 2 streets wide and
about 3 long. There are many small guest houses and tons of bars, but keep in
mind that neither serve food regularly at night. When we arrived the first
night we were directed to a specific restaurant by our hotel’s staff. On our
second night Ester and I were feeling bold and wanted to try somewhere new for
a change of scenery. After entering at least 7 places that clearly had TVs and
alcohol, we gave up on finding food anywhere else and headed back to the one
little eatery with its tables and chairs set up like a classroom facing the TV.
Pader town didn’t seem to have any formal market just a few ‘general stores’ as
you might imagine from the old mining towns of the American Southwest. A row of
general house repairs, one of snacks and another of basic cooking supplies,
period.
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downtown pader |
Staying in Pader we didn’t meet many locals outside of the
schools. Our hotel staff members were luckily pretty good at English, so I
spoke with the handyman/bar keeper in the evenings about living there. Steven
hasn’t been there long yet clearly knows the place in an out. He’d lived all
over Uganda and was seemingly well schooled, friendly and clearly hardworking.
Seems like he won’t be staying indefinitely, but that for now it pays his way.
Innocent assisted us in conducting surveys in the Pader
district and hearing her take on leaving for school only to return home had me
impressed that she was able to readjust to village life. She hoped to go to the
city again (Kampala) but would have to wait for work to take her there so that
she could afford to live there- which after school fees was a non-option for
her. Imagine trying to look for a job in a city a 4 hour bus ride away without
constant internet access, job sites or even a newspaper (since most villages
don’t even get that); it makes the village almost a trap when you get back
there. You can’t afford to leave, and your lack of being able to just “tread
the pavement and knock down doors” means that when people are hiring you may
not hear about it.
Education is good. It gives a person hope, and if followed
up with sound advice can prevent one from making poor decisions, but in some
cases education also glamorizes opportunities out of the terms of reality.
Half
the Sky is a book talking about women and starts out in discussions of
trafficking and moves into maternal mortality (definitely recommend reading it
if you haven’t). The point is that if you are educated you are less vulnerable
to these schemes, if you are poor you still might chance it, but education
helps to send up the red flags. Promises of work in the cities, Europe or even
America are prevalent and very real for Ugandans. From posters in the city with
“Want to work in America? PH:#######” are present and extremely tempting. In
Uganda, being Caucasian comes with a sincere amount of clout, and so one
offering work abroad is hard for one to imagine. One of the people I spoke with
this trip asked my advice about taking up a man about this type of offer. So
much risk for a group with so little to lose and seemingly everything to gain.
Can you blame the chance they take?
Part of the challenge of development work is that its
presence gives a false impression that things in the United States are all
roses – for everyone. It is so far from the truth. One of my grandmothers used
to ask, “why do you have to travel half way around the world to help people?
People need you right here.” It’s true- very true, and trying to express that
to the people abroad who are considering the risky choice of chancing a move to
the US need to understand that as a piece of their education. Urban poverty
shows the stark contrasts of the rich and the poor, but rural poverty creates a
bubble that makes disparity look like the difference between having 2 cows and
none rather than living in a slum vs having a flushing toilette.
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urban prices in nowhere?! no way... passing up chickens sold on the roadside |
Misunderstandings about America are rampant, but when
traveling humility and being willing to discuss issues of American poverty are
important. Knowing your own country must happen before you can truly talk of
poverty and opportunity. One of the most important things about driving across
the USA as a learning experience is seeing the LA, Amarillo, Little Rock and
Billstown differences and trailer parks along the way. In the US we see a
broken down looking house an assume it is abandoned at first thought, but often
that is not the case in places like Appalachia- urban migration has not dragged
everyone out of them quite yet!